Protecting the tops of deck joists - or not?Can I build a deck from reclaimed 2x4's?Can I turn a 4 X 4 deck...
How to acknowledge an embarrassing job interview, now that I work directly with the interviewer?
Why can I easily sing or whistle a tune I've just heard, but not as easily reproduce it on an instrument?
Two functions in the same line
Protecting the tops of deck joists - or not?
What is the meaning of "pick up" in this sentence?
Is my plan for fixing my water heater leak bad?
Is 45 min enough time to catch my next flight
LTSpice: When running a linear AC simulation, how to view the voltage ratio between two voltages?
What to do when being responsible for data protection in your lab, yet advice is ignored?
Criticizing long fiction. How is it different from short?
Am I a Rude Number?
Do objects in the public view need licencing?
Activating a Alphanet Faucet Wallet Remotely (without tezos-client)
Can I retract my name from an already published manuscript?
Do any poskim exempt 13-20-year-olds from Mussaf?
Finding ratio of the area of triangles
Overfitting and Underfitting
How can I introduce myself to a party without saying that I am a rogue?
What is better: yes / no radio, or simple checkbox?
How do I add a variable to this curl command?
Emit zero-width bash prompt sequence from external binary
Why is c4 a better move in this position?
If I delete my router's history can my ISP still provide it to my parents?
Why are some book titles not capitalized?
Protecting the tops of deck joists - or not?
Can I build a deck from reclaimed 2x4's?Can I turn a 4 X 4 deck post, eight feet high, into a 6 x 6 post by laminating a 2 X 6 and 2 X 4 to it?How can I frame this multi-level deck?Can I use aluminum or plastic sheeting between decking and joists to waterproof under a deck?Deck Footing capacity with BigFoot baseConnecting band/rim joist to floor joists on a cantilevered deckFreestanding deck - should I use joist hangers or bugle screws to attach joists to the bearers?Understanding deck spans for beams.Should I remove the 2x4 between the joists of this deck?Attaching a surface-mount deck post into tripled-up joists?
There appears to be a school of thought in deck building that it is worthwhile to protect the tops of joists by covering them with a waterproof barrier. That way any moisture can't sit on the top of the joists, soak in, and gradually cause rot or premature failure in pressure treated wood.
(Here's Matt Risinger's example of this).
However I've also read the viewpoint that while this practice may protect the joists it can also increase drying times for the deck boards. Assuming the decking is wood this seems like a significant risk.
I would imagine that the value of this is highly dependent on climate, the wetness of the site, solar exposure, etc. But I'm assuming the site is wet or else this wouldn't seem to matter one way or the other.
Also, though a cynical point of view is that this idea is driven by product company marketing strategy; but that itself doesn't mean it has no merit.
Is there yet any industry consensus on practices in this area? For example: building codes, studies being done as decks have aged, etc.? I'm open to global perspectives although I'm in the US myself.
deck
add a comment |
There appears to be a school of thought in deck building that it is worthwhile to protect the tops of joists by covering them with a waterproof barrier. That way any moisture can't sit on the top of the joists, soak in, and gradually cause rot or premature failure in pressure treated wood.
(Here's Matt Risinger's example of this).
However I've also read the viewpoint that while this practice may protect the joists it can also increase drying times for the deck boards. Assuming the decking is wood this seems like a significant risk.
I would imagine that the value of this is highly dependent on climate, the wetness of the site, solar exposure, etc. But I'm assuming the site is wet or else this wouldn't seem to matter one way or the other.
Also, though a cynical point of view is that this idea is driven by product company marketing strategy; but that itself doesn't mean it has no merit.
Is there yet any industry consensus on practices in this area? For example: building codes, studies being done as decks have aged, etc.? I'm open to global perspectives although I'm in the US myself.
deck
3
I can't answer the question as asked, but I can say, after demolishing, repairing, and restoring many aged decks, that the tops of the joists aren't exactly an Achilles heel. If the deck is old enough that the integrity of the fastening surface is degraded beyond utility, so are the joist ends, beam connections, posts, etc. At that point, since the decking is probably being replaced anyway, it's a fairly short step to a total rebuild. Whacking one proverbial mole doesn't yield much extended deck life.
– isherwood
4 hours ago
I'm with isherwood on this one - the tops of the joists are one of the last things that I would expect to fail on a deck. Even the decks I've worked on where the decking was completely rotted off the fasteners, the tops of the joists were almost always sound. Also, if you're using a composite decking, you'll find that most? of them have cups or groves milled into the bottom of them and don't really have a lot of direct contact area with the tops of the joists that would prevent them from drying out.
– Comintern
19 mins ago
add a comment |
There appears to be a school of thought in deck building that it is worthwhile to protect the tops of joists by covering them with a waterproof barrier. That way any moisture can't sit on the top of the joists, soak in, and gradually cause rot or premature failure in pressure treated wood.
(Here's Matt Risinger's example of this).
However I've also read the viewpoint that while this practice may protect the joists it can also increase drying times for the deck boards. Assuming the decking is wood this seems like a significant risk.
I would imagine that the value of this is highly dependent on climate, the wetness of the site, solar exposure, etc. But I'm assuming the site is wet or else this wouldn't seem to matter one way or the other.
Also, though a cynical point of view is that this idea is driven by product company marketing strategy; but that itself doesn't mean it has no merit.
Is there yet any industry consensus on practices in this area? For example: building codes, studies being done as decks have aged, etc.? I'm open to global perspectives although I'm in the US myself.
deck
There appears to be a school of thought in deck building that it is worthwhile to protect the tops of joists by covering them with a waterproof barrier. That way any moisture can't sit on the top of the joists, soak in, and gradually cause rot or premature failure in pressure treated wood.
(Here's Matt Risinger's example of this).
However I've also read the viewpoint that while this practice may protect the joists it can also increase drying times for the deck boards. Assuming the decking is wood this seems like a significant risk.
I would imagine that the value of this is highly dependent on climate, the wetness of the site, solar exposure, etc. But I'm assuming the site is wet or else this wouldn't seem to matter one way or the other.
Also, though a cynical point of view is that this idea is driven by product company marketing strategy; but that itself doesn't mean it has no merit.
Is there yet any industry consensus on practices in this area? For example: building codes, studies being done as decks have aged, etc.? I'm open to global perspectives although I'm in the US myself.
deck
deck
asked 4 hours ago
DaveInCazDaveInCaz
1,089728
1,089728
3
I can't answer the question as asked, but I can say, after demolishing, repairing, and restoring many aged decks, that the tops of the joists aren't exactly an Achilles heel. If the deck is old enough that the integrity of the fastening surface is degraded beyond utility, so are the joist ends, beam connections, posts, etc. At that point, since the decking is probably being replaced anyway, it's a fairly short step to a total rebuild. Whacking one proverbial mole doesn't yield much extended deck life.
– isherwood
4 hours ago
I'm with isherwood on this one - the tops of the joists are one of the last things that I would expect to fail on a deck. Even the decks I've worked on where the decking was completely rotted off the fasteners, the tops of the joists were almost always sound. Also, if you're using a composite decking, you'll find that most? of them have cups or groves milled into the bottom of them and don't really have a lot of direct contact area with the tops of the joists that would prevent them from drying out.
– Comintern
19 mins ago
add a comment |
3
I can't answer the question as asked, but I can say, after demolishing, repairing, and restoring many aged decks, that the tops of the joists aren't exactly an Achilles heel. If the deck is old enough that the integrity of the fastening surface is degraded beyond utility, so are the joist ends, beam connections, posts, etc. At that point, since the decking is probably being replaced anyway, it's a fairly short step to a total rebuild. Whacking one proverbial mole doesn't yield much extended deck life.
– isherwood
4 hours ago
I'm with isherwood on this one - the tops of the joists are one of the last things that I would expect to fail on a deck. Even the decks I've worked on where the decking was completely rotted off the fasteners, the tops of the joists were almost always sound. Also, if you're using a composite decking, you'll find that most? of them have cups or groves milled into the bottom of them and don't really have a lot of direct contact area with the tops of the joists that would prevent them from drying out.
– Comintern
19 mins ago
3
3
I can't answer the question as asked, but I can say, after demolishing, repairing, and restoring many aged decks, that the tops of the joists aren't exactly an Achilles heel. If the deck is old enough that the integrity of the fastening surface is degraded beyond utility, so are the joist ends, beam connections, posts, etc. At that point, since the decking is probably being replaced anyway, it's a fairly short step to a total rebuild. Whacking one proverbial mole doesn't yield much extended deck life.
– isherwood
4 hours ago
I can't answer the question as asked, but I can say, after demolishing, repairing, and restoring many aged decks, that the tops of the joists aren't exactly an Achilles heel. If the deck is old enough that the integrity of the fastening surface is degraded beyond utility, so are the joist ends, beam connections, posts, etc. At that point, since the decking is probably being replaced anyway, it's a fairly short step to a total rebuild. Whacking one proverbial mole doesn't yield much extended deck life.
– isherwood
4 hours ago
I'm with isherwood on this one - the tops of the joists are one of the last things that I would expect to fail on a deck. Even the decks I've worked on where the decking was completely rotted off the fasteners, the tops of the joists were almost always sound. Also, if you're using a composite decking, you'll find that most? of them have cups or groves milled into the bottom of them and don't really have a lot of direct contact area with the tops of the joists that would prevent them from drying out.
– Comintern
19 mins ago
I'm with isherwood on this one - the tops of the joists are one of the last things that I would expect to fail on a deck. Even the decks I've worked on where the decking was completely rotted off the fasteners, the tops of the joists were almost always sound. Also, if you're using a composite decking, you'll find that most? of them have cups or groves milled into the bottom of them and don't really have a lot of direct contact area with the tops of the joists that would prevent them from drying out.
– Comintern
19 mins ago
add a comment |
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
There’s always “Good”, “Better” and “Best” in any construction project. I’ve never seen the tops of pressure treated deck supports protected with “peel and stick” membrane, and I live in a very wet area of the U.S. (We get about 60 - 80 inches of rain each year.)
All of the ideas he recommended in the video you referenced are great, but membrane on the top of the joists seems extreme. In fact, there is a greater chance that rot will occur at the ends of each support, (because water “wicks” into a board far more in end grain than in side grain,) than on the tops of the supports...which he doesn’t mention.
BTW, there is nothing in the Code that requires a membrane on top of deck supports.
add a comment |
Your Answer
StackExchange.ready(function() {
var channelOptions = {
tags: "".split(" "),
id: "73"
};
initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);
StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function() {
// Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled) {
StackExchange.using("snippets", function() {
createEditor();
});
}
else {
createEditor();
}
});
function createEditor() {
StackExchange.prepareEditor({
heartbeatType: 'answer',
autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
convertImagesToLinks: false,
noModals: true,
showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
reputationToPostImages: null,
bindNavPrevention: true,
postfix: "",
imageUploader: {
brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
allowUrls: true
},
noCode: true, onDemand: true,
discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
});
}
});
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function () {
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f158971%2fprotecting-the-tops-of-deck-joists-or-not%23new-answer', 'question_page');
}
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
There’s always “Good”, “Better” and “Best” in any construction project. I’ve never seen the tops of pressure treated deck supports protected with “peel and stick” membrane, and I live in a very wet area of the U.S. (We get about 60 - 80 inches of rain each year.)
All of the ideas he recommended in the video you referenced are great, but membrane on the top of the joists seems extreme. In fact, there is a greater chance that rot will occur at the ends of each support, (because water “wicks” into a board far more in end grain than in side grain,) than on the tops of the supports...which he doesn’t mention.
BTW, there is nothing in the Code that requires a membrane on top of deck supports.
add a comment |
There’s always “Good”, “Better” and “Best” in any construction project. I’ve never seen the tops of pressure treated deck supports protected with “peel and stick” membrane, and I live in a very wet area of the U.S. (We get about 60 - 80 inches of rain each year.)
All of the ideas he recommended in the video you referenced are great, but membrane on the top of the joists seems extreme. In fact, there is a greater chance that rot will occur at the ends of each support, (because water “wicks” into a board far more in end grain than in side grain,) than on the tops of the supports...which he doesn’t mention.
BTW, there is nothing in the Code that requires a membrane on top of deck supports.
add a comment |
There’s always “Good”, “Better” and “Best” in any construction project. I’ve never seen the tops of pressure treated deck supports protected with “peel and stick” membrane, and I live in a very wet area of the U.S. (We get about 60 - 80 inches of rain each year.)
All of the ideas he recommended in the video you referenced are great, but membrane on the top of the joists seems extreme. In fact, there is a greater chance that rot will occur at the ends of each support, (because water “wicks” into a board far more in end grain than in side grain,) than on the tops of the supports...which he doesn’t mention.
BTW, there is nothing in the Code that requires a membrane on top of deck supports.
There’s always “Good”, “Better” and “Best” in any construction project. I’ve never seen the tops of pressure treated deck supports protected with “peel and stick” membrane, and I live in a very wet area of the U.S. (We get about 60 - 80 inches of rain each year.)
All of the ideas he recommended in the video you referenced are great, but membrane on the top of the joists seems extreme. In fact, there is a greater chance that rot will occur at the ends of each support, (because water “wicks” into a board far more in end grain than in side grain,) than on the tops of the supports...which he doesn’t mention.
BTW, there is nothing in the Code that requires a membrane on top of deck supports.
edited 43 mins ago
answered 3 hours ago
Lee SamLee Sam
10.5k3718
10.5k3718
add a comment |
add a comment |
Thanks for contributing an answer to Home Improvement Stack Exchange!
- Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!
But avoid …
- Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.
- Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.
To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function () {
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f158971%2fprotecting-the-tops-of-deck-joists-or-not%23new-answer', 'question_page');
}
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
3
I can't answer the question as asked, but I can say, after demolishing, repairing, and restoring many aged decks, that the tops of the joists aren't exactly an Achilles heel. If the deck is old enough that the integrity of the fastening surface is degraded beyond utility, so are the joist ends, beam connections, posts, etc. At that point, since the decking is probably being replaced anyway, it's a fairly short step to a total rebuild. Whacking one proverbial mole doesn't yield much extended deck life.
– isherwood
4 hours ago
I'm with isherwood on this one - the tops of the joists are one of the last things that I would expect to fail on a deck. Even the decks I've worked on where the decking was completely rotted off the fasteners, the tops of the joists were almost always sound. Also, if you're using a composite decking, you'll find that most? of them have cups or groves milled into the bottom of them and don't really have a lot of direct contact area with the tops of the joists that would prevent them from drying out.
– Comintern
19 mins ago