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How can I best take pictures of a moving speaker in a dark room with accent lights?
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I’m taking pictures this Sunday at my church of the youth pastor preaching and in the youth room is a semi-lit type of room with a lot of accent colour lights. He’s going to be moving and I want to get shots to freeze the action so I know I need a high shutter speed but this is where I’m stuck:
I’ll be standing about 10-15 feet from the stage so I’m not sure what aperture to use and I want to have that nice bokeh background but I want to make sure he’s totally in focus(I have a 50mm prime 1.8 lens) and I’m not sure what ISO to use to avoid a lot of noise. I have Lightroom to bump up any pictures
I’m looking for past experiences and what you guys did to overcome some issues you ran into.
exposure
New contributor
add a comment |
I’m taking pictures this Sunday at my church of the youth pastor preaching and in the youth room is a semi-lit type of room with a lot of accent colour lights. He’s going to be moving and I want to get shots to freeze the action so I know I need a high shutter speed but this is where I’m stuck:
I’ll be standing about 10-15 feet from the stage so I’m not sure what aperture to use and I want to have that nice bokeh background but I want to make sure he’s totally in focus(I have a 50mm prime 1.8 lens) and I’m not sure what ISO to use to avoid a lot of noise. I have Lightroom to bump up any pictures
I’m looking for past experiences and what you guys did to overcome some issues you ran into.
exposure
New contributor
1
How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?
– Tetsujin
4 hours ago
I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain
– Nate
4 hours ago
add a comment |
I’m taking pictures this Sunday at my church of the youth pastor preaching and in the youth room is a semi-lit type of room with a lot of accent colour lights. He’s going to be moving and I want to get shots to freeze the action so I know I need a high shutter speed but this is where I’m stuck:
I’ll be standing about 10-15 feet from the stage so I’m not sure what aperture to use and I want to have that nice bokeh background but I want to make sure he’s totally in focus(I have a 50mm prime 1.8 lens) and I’m not sure what ISO to use to avoid a lot of noise. I have Lightroom to bump up any pictures
I’m looking for past experiences and what you guys did to overcome some issues you ran into.
exposure
New contributor
I’m taking pictures this Sunday at my church of the youth pastor preaching and in the youth room is a semi-lit type of room with a lot of accent colour lights. He’s going to be moving and I want to get shots to freeze the action so I know I need a high shutter speed but this is where I’m stuck:
I’ll be standing about 10-15 feet from the stage so I’m not sure what aperture to use and I want to have that nice bokeh background but I want to make sure he’s totally in focus(I have a 50mm prime 1.8 lens) and I’m not sure what ISO to use to avoid a lot of noise. I have Lightroom to bump up any pictures
I’m looking for past experiences and what you guys did to overcome some issues you ran into.
exposure
exposure
New contributor
New contributor
edited 4 hours ago
mattdm
123k40359656
123k40359656
New contributor
asked 5 hours ago
NateNate
62
62
New contributor
New contributor
1
How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?
– Tetsujin
4 hours ago
I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain
– Nate
4 hours ago
add a comment |
1
How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?
– Tetsujin
4 hours ago
I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain
– Nate
4 hours ago
1
1
How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?
– Tetsujin
4 hours ago
How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?
– Tetsujin
4 hours ago
I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain
– Nate
4 hours ago
I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain
– Nate
4 hours ago
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
Bumping up pictures in post will introduce more noise than bumping up ISO in camera. Do not be afraid of high ISOs if there is no way to avoid them.
For decent background separation. use the widest aperture that you can.
If he does not move too much (i.e. wildly gesticulating), 1/250s should be more than enough.
Also: It is your decision entirely, but do not be afraid of motion blur - while having arms blurred out of existence might be a bad thing, having a slight blur might give a more dynamic look.
Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!
– Nate
4 hours ago
@Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)
– flolilo
4 hours ago
add a comment |
If you can get in there beforehand & do some tests, that will benefit greatly.
You need to check for several things...
that the camera can even find focus in low light, especially if your subject is not going to be specifically lit.
that your mood lighting is not going to have to be sacrificed [either by burning it right out or adding additional subject lighting] in order to get your subject bright enough.
that you can balance high ISO against this in such a way as your darker areas are not going to be awash with noise.
do some colour tests, preferably using a volunteer for skin-tones, if not also a grey card held by the volunteer, so you can set your white balance beforehand; otherwise the mood lighting might adversely influence your tones - differently for every shot.
if you can achieve all the above, then test different focussing & light sensor modes on your camera, if available. You may end up using AF-continuous [or sport] mode to follow your subject whilst in motion, spot-metering so your subject is prioritised over anything else - or you may even end up on manual or aperture-preferred, to save the camera from making wildly different decisions per shot.
add a comment |
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2 Answers
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2 Answers
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votes
Bumping up pictures in post will introduce more noise than bumping up ISO in camera. Do not be afraid of high ISOs if there is no way to avoid them.
For decent background separation. use the widest aperture that you can.
If he does not move too much (i.e. wildly gesticulating), 1/250s should be more than enough.
Also: It is your decision entirely, but do not be afraid of motion blur - while having arms blurred out of existence might be a bad thing, having a slight blur might give a more dynamic look.
Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!
– Nate
4 hours ago
@Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)
– flolilo
4 hours ago
add a comment |
Bumping up pictures in post will introduce more noise than bumping up ISO in camera. Do not be afraid of high ISOs if there is no way to avoid them.
For decent background separation. use the widest aperture that you can.
If he does not move too much (i.e. wildly gesticulating), 1/250s should be more than enough.
Also: It is your decision entirely, but do not be afraid of motion blur - while having arms blurred out of existence might be a bad thing, having a slight blur might give a more dynamic look.
Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!
– Nate
4 hours ago
@Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)
– flolilo
4 hours ago
add a comment |
Bumping up pictures in post will introduce more noise than bumping up ISO in camera. Do not be afraid of high ISOs if there is no way to avoid them.
For decent background separation. use the widest aperture that you can.
If he does not move too much (i.e. wildly gesticulating), 1/250s should be more than enough.
Also: It is your decision entirely, but do not be afraid of motion blur - while having arms blurred out of existence might be a bad thing, having a slight blur might give a more dynamic look.
Bumping up pictures in post will introduce more noise than bumping up ISO in camera. Do not be afraid of high ISOs if there is no way to avoid them.
For decent background separation. use the widest aperture that you can.
If he does not move too much (i.e. wildly gesticulating), 1/250s should be more than enough.
Also: It is your decision entirely, but do not be afraid of motion blur - while having arms blurred out of existence might be a bad thing, having a slight blur might give a more dynamic look.
answered 5 hours ago
floliloflolilo
5,57811839
5,57811839
Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!
– Nate
4 hours ago
@Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)
– flolilo
4 hours ago
add a comment |
Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!
– Nate
4 hours ago
@Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)
– flolilo
4 hours ago
Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!
– Nate
4 hours ago
Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!
– Nate
4 hours ago
@Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)
– flolilo
4 hours ago
@Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)
– flolilo
4 hours ago
add a comment |
If you can get in there beforehand & do some tests, that will benefit greatly.
You need to check for several things...
that the camera can even find focus in low light, especially if your subject is not going to be specifically lit.
that your mood lighting is not going to have to be sacrificed [either by burning it right out or adding additional subject lighting] in order to get your subject bright enough.
that you can balance high ISO against this in such a way as your darker areas are not going to be awash with noise.
do some colour tests, preferably using a volunteer for skin-tones, if not also a grey card held by the volunteer, so you can set your white balance beforehand; otherwise the mood lighting might adversely influence your tones - differently for every shot.
if you can achieve all the above, then test different focussing & light sensor modes on your camera, if available. You may end up using AF-continuous [or sport] mode to follow your subject whilst in motion, spot-metering so your subject is prioritised over anything else - or you may even end up on manual or aperture-preferred, to save the camera from making wildly different decisions per shot.
add a comment |
If you can get in there beforehand & do some tests, that will benefit greatly.
You need to check for several things...
that the camera can even find focus in low light, especially if your subject is not going to be specifically lit.
that your mood lighting is not going to have to be sacrificed [either by burning it right out or adding additional subject lighting] in order to get your subject bright enough.
that you can balance high ISO against this in such a way as your darker areas are not going to be awash with noise.
do some colour tests, preferably using a volunteer for skin-tones, if not also a grey card held by the volunteer, so you can set your white balance beforehand; otherwise the mood lighting might adversely influence your tones - differently for every shot.
if you can achieve all the above, then test different focussing & light sensor modes on your camera, if available. You may end up using AF-continuous [or sport] mode to follow your subject whilst in motion, spot-metering so your subject is prioritised over anything else - or you may even end up on manual or aperture-preferred, to save the camera from making wildly different decisions per shot.
add a comment |
If you can get in there beforehand & do some tests, that will benefit greatly.
You need to check for several things...
that the camera can even find focus in low light, especially if your subject is not going to be specifically lit.
that your mood lighting is not going to have to be sacrificed [either by burning it right out or adding additional subject lighting] in order to get your subject bright enough.
that you can balance high ISO against this in such a way as your darker areas are not going to be awash with noise.
do some colour tests, preferably using a volunteer for skin-tones, if not also a grey card held by the volunteer, so you can set your white balance beforehand; otherwise the mood lighting might adversely influence your tones - differently for every shot.
if you can achieve all the above, then test different focussing & light sensor modes on your camera, if available. You may end up using AF-continuous [or sport] mode to follow your subject whilst in motion, spot-metering so your subject is prioritised over anything else - or you may even end up on manual or aperture-preferred, to save the camera from making wildly different decisions per shot.
If you can get in there beforehand & do some tests, that will benefit greatly.
You need to check for several things...
that the camera can even find focus in low light, especially if your subject is not going to be specifically lit.
that your mood lighting is not going to have to be sacrificed [either by burning it right out or adding additional subject lighting] in order to get your subject bright enough.
that you can balance high ISO against this in such a way as your darker areas are not going to be awash with noise.
do some colour tests, preferably using a volunteer for skin-tones, if not also a grey card held by the volunteer, so you can set your white balance beforehand; otherwise the mood lighting might adversely influence your tones - differently for every shot.
if you can achieve all the above, then test different focussing & light sensor modes on your camera, if available. You may end up using AF-continuous [or sport] mode to follow your subject whilst in motion, spot-metering so your subject is prioritised over anything else - or you may even end up on manual or aperture-preferred, to save the camera from making wildly different decisions per shot.
answered 4 hours ago
TetsujinTetsujin
8,19821948
8,19821948
add a comment |
add a comment |
Nate is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Nate is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Nate is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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1
How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?
– Tetsujin
4 hours ago
I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain
– Nate
4 hours ago