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I’m taking pictures this Sunday at my church of the youth pastor preaching and in the youth room is a semi-lit type of room with a lot of accent colour lights. He’s going to be moving and I want to get shots to freeze the action so I know I need a high shutter speed but this is where I’m stuck:



I’ll be standing about 10-15 feet from the stage so I’m not sure what aperture to use and I want to have that nice bokeh background but I want to make sure he’s totally in focus(I have a 50mm prime 1.8 lens) and I’m not sure what ISO to use to avoid a lot of noise. I have Lightroom to bump up any pictures



I’m looking for past experiences and what you guys did to overcome some issues you ran into.










share|improve this question









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  • 1





    How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?

    – Tetsujin
    4 hours ago











  • I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain

    – Nate
    4 hours ago


















1















I’m taking pictures this Sunday at my church of the youth pastor preaching and in the youth room is a semi-lit type of room with a lot of accent colour lights. He’s going to be moving and I want to get shots to freeze the action so I know I need a high shutter speed but this is where I’m stuck:



I’ll be standing about 10-15 feet from the stage so I’m not sure what aperture to use and I want to have that nice bokeh background but I want to make sure he’s totally in focus(I have a 50mm prime 1.8 lens) and I’m not sure what ISO to use to avoid a lot of noise. I have Lightroom to bump up any pictures



I’m looking for past experiences and what you guys did to overcome some issues you ran into.










share|improve this question









New contributor




Nate is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
















  • 1





    How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?

    – Tetsujin
    4 hours ago











  • I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain

    – Nate
    4 hours ago














1












1








1








I’m taking pictures this Sunday at my church of the youth pastor preaching and in the youth room is a semi-lit type of room with a lot of accent colour lights. He’s going to be moving and I want to get shots to freeze the action so I know I need a high shutter speed but this is where I’m stuck:



I’ll be standing about 10-15 feet from the stage so I’m not sure what aperture to use and I want to have that nice bokeh background but I want to make sure he’s totally in focus(I have a 50mm prime 1.8 lens) and I’m not sure what ISO to use to avoid a lot of noise. I have Lightroom to bump up any pictures



I’m looking for past experiences and what you guys did to overcome some issues you ran into.










share|improve this question









New contributor




Nate is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












I’m taking pictures this Sunday at my church of the youth pastor preaching and in the youth room is a semi-lit type of room with a lot of accent colour lights. He’s going to be moving and I want to get shots to freeze the action so I know I need a high shutter speed but this is where I’m stuck:



I’ll be standing about 10-15 feet from the stage so I’m not sure what aperture to use and I want to have that nice bokeh background but I want to make sure he’s totally in focus(I have a 50mm prime 1.8 lens) and I’m not sure what ISO to use to avoid a lot of noise. I have Lightroom to bump up any pictures



I’m looking for past experiences and what you guys did to overcome some issues you ran into.







exposure






share|improve this question









New contributor




Nate is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









New contributor




Nate is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 4 hours ago









mattdm

123k40359656




123k40359656






New contributor




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asked 5 hours ago









NateNate

62




62




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Nate is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






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Check out our Code of Conduct.








  • 1





    How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?

    – Tetsujin
    4 hours ago











  • I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain

    – Nate
    4 hours ago














  • 1





    How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?

    – Tetsujin
    4 hours ago











  • I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain

    – Nate
    4 hours ago








1




1





How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?

– Tetsujin
4 hours ago





How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?

– Tetsujin
4 hours ago













I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain

– Nate
4 hours ago





I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain

– Nate
4 hours ago










2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes


















2














Bumping up pictures in post will introduce more noise than bumping up ISO in camera. Do not be afraid of high ISOs if there is no way to avoid them.



For decent background separation. use the widest aperture that you can.



If he does not move too much (i.e. wildly gesticulating), 1/250s should be more than enough.



Also: It is your decision entirely, but do not be afraid of motion blur - while having arms blurred out of existence might be a bad thing, having a slight blur might give a more dynamic look.






share|improve this answer
























  • Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!

    – Nate
    4 hours ago











  • @Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)

    – flolilo
    4 hours ago



















1














If you can get in there beforehand & do some tests, that will benefit greatly.



You need to check for several things...




  • that the camera can even find focus in low light, especially if your subject is not going to be specifically lit.


  • that your mood lighting is not going to have to be sacrificed [either by burning it right out or adding additional subject lighting] in order to get your subject bright enough.


  • that you can balance high ISO against this in such a way as your darker areas are not going to be awash with noise.


  • do some colour tests, preferably using a volunteer for skin-tones, if not also a grey card held by the volunteer, so you can set your white balance beforehand; otherwise the mood lighting might adversely influence your tones - differently for every shot.


  • if you can achieve all the above, then test different focussing & light sensor modes on your camera, if available. You may end up using AF-continuous [or sport] mode to follow your subject whilst in motion, spot-metering so your subject is prioritised over anything else - or you may even end up on manual or aperture-preferred, to save the camera from making wildly different decisions per shot.







share|improve this answer
























    Your Answer








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    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes








    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    2














    Bumping up pictures in post will introduce more noise than bumping up ISO in camera. Do not be afraid of high ISOs if there is no way to avoid them.



    For decent background separation. use the widest aperture that you can.



    If he does not move too much (i.e. wildly gesticulating), 1/250s should be more than enough.



    Also: It is your decision entirely, but do not be afraid of motion blur - while having arms blurred out of existence might be a bad thing, having a slight blur might give a more dynamic look.






    share|improve this answer
























    • Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!

      – Nate
      4 hours ago











    • @Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)

      – flolilo
      4 hours ago
















    2














    Bumping up pictures in post will introduce more noise than bumping up ISO in camera. Do not be afraid of high ISOs if there is no way to avoid them.



    For decent background separation. use the widest aperture that you can.



    If he does not move too much (i.e. wildly gesticulating), 1/250s should be more than enough.



    Also: It is your decision entirely, but do not be afraid of motion blur - while having arms blurred out of existence might be a bad thing, having a slight blur might give a more dynamic look.






    share|improve this answer
























    • Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!

      – Nate
      4 hours ago











    • @Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)

      – flolilo
      4 hours ago














    2












    2








    2







    Bumping up pictures in post will introduce more noise than bumping up ISO in camera. Do not be afraid of high ISOs if there is no way to avoid them.



    For decent background separation. use the widest aperture that you can.



    If he does not move too much (i.e. wildly gesticulating), 1/250s should be more than enough.



    Also: It is your decision entirely, but do not be afraid of motion blur - while having arms blurred out of existence might be a bad thing, having a slight blur might give a more dynamic look.






    share|improve this answer













    Bumping up pictures in post will introduce more noise than bumping up ISO in camera. Do not be afraid of high ISOs if there is no way to avoid them.



    For decent background separation. use the widest aperture that you can.



    If he does not move too much (i.e. wildly gesticulating), 1/250s should be more than enough.



    Also: It is your decision entirely, but do not be afraid of motion blur - while having arms blurred out of existence might be a bad thing, having a slight blur might give a more dynamic look.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered 5 hours ago









    floliloflolilo

    5,57811839




    5,57811839













    • Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!

      – Nate
      4 hours ago











    • @Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)

      – flolilo
      4 hours ago



















    • Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!

      – Nate
      4 hours ago











    • @Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)

      – flolilo
      4 hours ago

















    Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!

    – Nate
    4 hours ago





    Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!

    – Nate
    4 hours ago













    @Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)

    – flolilo
    4 hours ago





    @Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)

    – flolilo
    4 hours ago













    1














    If you can get in there beforehand & do some tests, that will benefit greatly.



    You need to check for several things...




    • that the camera can even find focus in low light, especially if your subject is not going to be specifically lit.


    • that your mood lighting is not going to have to be sacrificed [either by burning it right out or adding additional subject lighting] in order to get your subject bright enough.


    • that you can balance high ISO against this in such a way as your darker areas are not going to be awash with noise.


    • do some colour tests, preferably using a volunteer for skin-tones, if not also a grey card held by the volunteer, so you can set your white balance beforehand; otherwise the mood lighting might adversely influence your tones - differently for every shot.


    • if you can achieve all the above, then test different focussing & light sensor modes on your camera, if available. You may end up using AF-continuous [or sport] mode to follow your subject whilst in motion, spot-metering so your subject is prioritised over anything else - or you may even end up on manual or aperture-preferred, to save the camera from making wildly different decisions per shot.







    share|improve this answer




























      1














      If you can get in there beforehand & do some tests, that will benefit greatly.



      You need to check for several things...




      • that the camera can even find focus in low light, especially if your subject is not going to be specifically lit.


      • that your mood lighting is not going to have to be sacrificed [either by burning it right out or adding additional subject lighting] in order to get your subject bright enough.


      • that you can balance high ISO against this in such a way as your darker areas are not going to be awash with noise.


      • do some colour tests, preferably using a volunteer for skin-tones, if not also a grey card held by the volunteer, so you can set your white balance beforehand; otherwise the mood lighting might adversely influence your tones - differently for every shot.


      • if you can achieve all the above, then test different focussing & light sensor modes on your camera, if available. You may end up using AF-continuous [or sport] mode to follow your subject whilst in motion, spot-metering so your subject is prioritised over anything else - or you may even end up on manual or aperture-preferred, to save the camera from making wildly different decisions per shot.







      share|improve this answer


























        1












        1








        1







        If you can get in there beforehand & do some tests, that will benefit greatly.



        You need to check for several things...




        • that the camera can even find focus in low light, especially if your subject is not going to be specifically lit.


        • that your mood lighting is not going to have to be sacrificed [either by burning it right out or adding additional subject lighting] in order to get your subject bright enough.


        • that you can balance high ISO against this in such a way as your darker areas are not going to be awash with noise.


        • do some colour tests, preferably using a volunteer for skin-tones, if not also a grey card held by the volunteer, so you can set your white balance beforehand; otherwise the mood lighting might adversely influence your tones - differently for every shot.


        • if you can achieve all the above, then test different focussing & light sensor modes on your camera, if available. You may end up using AF-continuous [or sport] mode to follow your subject whilst in motion, spot-metering so your subject is prioritised over anything else - or you may even end up on manual or aperture-preferred, to save the camera from making wildly different decisions per shot.







        share|improve this answer













        If you can get in there beforehand & do some tests, that will benefit greatly.



        You need to check for several things...




        • that the camera can even find focus in low light, especially if your subject is not going to be specifically lit.


        • that your mood lighting is not going to have to be sacrificed [either by burning it right out or adding additional subject lighting] in order to get your subject bright enough.


        • that you can balance high ISO against this in such a way as your darker areas are not going to be awash with noise.


        • do some colour tests, preferably using a volunteer for skin-tones, if not also a grey card held by the volunteer, so you can set your white balance beforehand; otherwise the mood lighting might adversely influence your tones - differently for every shot.


        • if you can achieve all the above, then test different focussing & light sensor modes on your camera, if available. You may end up using AF-continuous [or sport] mode to follow your subject whilst in motion, spot-metering so your subject is prioritised over anything else - or you may even end up on manual or aperture-preferred, to save the camera from making wildly different decisions per shot.








        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered 4 hours ago









        TetsujinTetsujin

        8,19821948




        8,19821948






















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